The 30-foot painted wooden statue of Pinocchio was a clue that we had stumbled into tourist hell.The second was hundreds of cars and campers parked by the side of the road as we headed down the mountain to the town of Collodi.We had seen the town from a distance the next ridge over.  I had joined three others to cycle east out of Lucca and to explore the town of Collodi - the birthplace of Carlo Collodi who wrote the children's classic Pinocchio.The town looked beautiful from a distance as we biked across the ridge to the west and looked across the olive groves and vineyards.  Collodi stretched down the mountain in a winding narrow trail with a castle on top and an villa at the bottom and homes clinging to the hillside in between.  From the ridge, Collodi looked like an ideal destination that would be fun to explore ... It looked like a fantasy village stretched out below us like a three dimensional map.But at eye-level it was tempting to grimace and ride on ... the clutter of stands and signs competing for attention at the base of the mountain screamed Tourist Trap.  Restaurants with overpriced food and tourist shops lined the crowded streets hawking Pinocchio key chains and pointy-nosed face masks and made in China plastic Pinocchio stuff and T-shirts.  Some poor guy was walking around in pantaloons and a pointed hat.But one travel truth you can count on is that the majority of people don't venture further off the beaten path than they absolutely must, and generally a little bit of effort will get you away from the masses.So after fortifying on an overpriced pannini we get on our bikes and climb the hot switchbacks up the back road to the top of the village.As expected,